Review Title: El Colmao , El Colmao: Magnificent Cuban Cuisine
Reviewed By: Peter Almada
I first sampled the menu at El Colmao years ago
for my birthday-my second time after eating at
Versailles--and while I was, and still am not, a
food critic, I have to say I prefer El Colmao
over Versailles any day of the millenium.
Why is that? Pricing for one thing: At El Colmao,
the meals run from $9-$15, and secondarily, the
service is much, much better.
I can't remember exactly what I ordered at El
Colmao, but this restaurant is renowed for its
breaded steak (bistec empanizado) served with
black beans and rice.
The fish with Cuban creole sauce is also quite
good, as well as the sweet and fried plaintains
(a Carribean food staple, very common in Cuba).
If I remember correctly, in the restaurant proper
there were paintings of the Cuban countryside
along the walls--green hills rolling down to a
crystal blue ocean--punctuated with pictures of
famous cultural icons of Cuba.
The colors at El Colmao were subdued, not glaring
or loud at all, reminding me of a Cuban nightclub
suffused with shadows and cigarette smoke (though
no smoking is allowed).
I almost expected a Cuban singing diva like
Celia Cruz or India to croon out a few notes of an
impassioned Cuban Son.
The atmosphere of El Colmao is laid back and
informal--it is very much a people's restaurant
devoid of pretention--and in my book that's a
definite plus.
All in all, if you're in the mood for authentic
Cuban cuisine but you're on a limited budget,
head on over to El Colmao.